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Next stop… Taiji where my dad and grampa grew up.  The only relative we know that lives there now is my dad’s sister’s child, Hiromi.  She is about my age and we have alot in common.   She was a kindergarten teacher and preschool director.  She even helped plan the new preschool facility after her retirement. 

Besides both being educators, we both love ballroom dancing.  She takes private lessons and loves to perform. I take group lessons and just love to dance. I am lucky that in Hawaii there are many nonprofit social clubs where dance lessons are plentiful and reasonable and socials are weekly.  I tell her that she needs to come to Hawaii to truly enjoy social dancing.  She married later in life so her and her husband,  Shigeharu, have no children. I like him.  He has a great sense of humor and is fun to be around.  He has a type of polio and is not very mobile at this time, but he is getting treatment for his condition.

Taiji is a small (population 3000) fishing town.  In the past they were known for whaling. Now they have become imfamous for dolphin killing.  When the documentary,  “The Cove” came out in 2009, the  world was shocked at the inhumane and vicious killings of dolphins in the cove.  The cove is a beach area in Taiji where the fishermen scare the dolphins into.  

Then they cone off the area so they cannot escape and proceed to slaughter them by hammering metal rods near their blow holes to cause death or they bludgeon them to death on the beach.  The cove turns red with blood.  That is why the dolphin watch groups call it a red cove day or a blue cove day.  It is a horrific scene of which makes me weak with disgust.   This is still going on, but now they move the dolphins to another area so they cannot be seen or photographed.  Nowadays they also select the “choice” dolphins to be sold to aquariums or sea life parks and then kill the rest to be sold for meat in Japan and China.  A live dolphin brings alot more than a dead one.  They can sell a live dolphin for up to $300,000 versus for meat they get maybe $600. Please, if you can, try not to support those types of shows. I have to admit that I did go to the dolphin/whale museum in Taiji because I felt I needed to see it. There was educational information that was interesting and there was an exhibition about the early whaling industry in Taiji. The dolphin show was okay and after it they let you, for a fee, feed the captive dolphins. Thank goodness some aquariums are now stopping these types of shows as a result of public awareness and pressure.

On my last day there, the fishermen trapped some dolphins. We went to see and my heart sunk as I realized they would all be killed or be sold. I wish I could have set them free…

This all disturbs me very much and I asked Hiromi why they cannot find other ways to make a living.  She replied that the soil is not good for farming and there are no other types of fish that can support their livelihoods.  They claim that it is part of their traditions and is a way of life.  This still goes on today.  The quota for last season was 1,849.  They ended up capturing/killing a total of 560 dolphins.  The dolphin watch groups (Dolphin Project) are still protesting, monitoring and pursuing lawsuits. Feel free to look them up and support them.
I know that fishing is in my family’s background and still continues with my brother who fishes for salmon in Alaska.  My descendents were whalers not dolphin killers. My grandfather and father both left Taiji and made lives for themselves in another small fishing community… in Petersburg Alaska.

Other than that, Taiji is a lovely town.  I enjoyed visiting the schools and the “Kaino” home.  Hiromi still takes care of the house where my grampa, dad, aunt and uncles grew up in.  I think she is ready to sell it though as the upkeep is getting to be too much. 

She and Shigeharu have a nice home nearby.

We also hiked to Nachi Waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Japan at a drop of  133 meters. Besides being an awesome waterfall, it is also worshiped as a Shinto diety. 

Mostly, I enjoyed the dinners together at Hiromi’s house.  She was most gracious and I hope I get the chance to do the same for her one day. 

Leaving Taiji I had many thoughts… one of my dad being sent to school there and living with his grandmother when he was only 10 years old and not speaking any Japanese.  He struggled, but survived and thrived.  He accomplished so much in his time there.  He was placed in kindergarten when he was ten, but excelled his way to high school to end up at the top of his class in 7 short years. 

We went to the museum archives and looked my dad’s “box” where we found pictures and his awards.

Then he married my mom and they went to to build a new life in America to Alaska where his mom and dad were living.

Then I think of Hiromi and how her life was and is so different because her mother chose to stay in Taiji, Japan. 

We are similar and yet soo different.  The choices we make determine our  future and future of generations to come.  We cannot go back, only forward looking ahead.  It also reminds me that we should never stop making new choices that continue to develop and enrich our lives. 

The city of food.  I didn’t understand that saying till I came here.  Soo many places to eat… and such good food, but a person can only eat so much.  My guide tells me in Kyoto they say… Kuidaore which means “eat till you drop” or eat and buy so much food till you have no more money left.  There is a saying that goes, “Spend Your Money on Fashion in Kyoto, eat till you’re broke in Osaka”.  Now I know why.  Walking through the streets there are tons of eating places! 

On my walking tour we went to Dotonburi, the well known street near a canal known for food, entertainment, bright lights and the famous “Running Man” sign. I never knew about this either till I saw it.  This is the famed giant billboard installed in 1935 as an advertisement for the Glico confectionery company.  The Glico candy company founder Ri-ichi Ezaki created a snack in 1922 as an energy product, a type of candy caramel, by adding glycogen from oysters to the snack. It was said each treat could give you energy to run 300 metres, so a running man has been used to this day as the companies mascot and logo.  They now make the popular pokey sticks, which I am more familiar with.  People come from all over to take a picture by the running man doing the same pose.  Silly, but fun! 

Kuidaore Taro came to Osaka in 1950 as a mascot of a restaurant called Cuidaore, banging on his drums in front of the restaurant every day to attract and welcome guests to the business. The resturant closed, but due to requests he came back to welcome customers and is now a symbol of Dotonburi and there are a ton of merchandise featuring him. Very silly!

… but holy cow the food… the best takoyaki, octopus dumpling, I ever ate was on Osaka, especially at Kukuru.  It is a franchise throughout Osaka.  If you go there try it. Very yummy!

On my first night in Osaka, I went to find someplace to eat and settled on this seafood restaurant.   I ordered crab miso and noodles cuz it looked good in the pictures.  When it was served I figured out what it was cuz they cooked it at my table.  The crab “miso” is the brains and guts of the crab.  My dad use to eat it.  I never tried it till now and have to say it was good.  My dad would be happy. 

At Kuromon market the sushi was delicious as was the mochi and ice cream.

We went to see Osaka Castle.  There is a double moat protecting the castle.  The walls look impermeable.  We were able to walk inside of the castle and up to the top.  The view of Osaka was impressive. 

Then we walked over to the Tsutenkaku which is a tower 108 meters tall. The designer was Tachu Naito, who was also the designer of Tokyo Tower which was being built during the same period.  Today the tower has a special outdoor observation platform and the Tower Slider, where you can slide down – very popular.  Inside and at the top you can see the “Billiken” statue that is said to bring good fortune to those who touch the soles of his feet.

Shitinoji temple is one of the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan built in 1400.   It has been reconstructed a number of times due to typhoon as well as fire damages. 

It was a great walking tour and my guide suggested I don’t miss going on a night cruise down the Dotonburi.  So I made my way back to the Dotonburi and hopped on the boat ride.  Indeed it was a festival for the eyes. 

I just had to go to a hair salon and get my hair colored and cut. I heard Japan hair salons are the best. Wanted to try it out Have to say the staff all kept bowing when I left.

We went to assist a natural farmer. It was hard work.  The farmer is a man in about his 40s who left Europe, acting and pursued the Buddhist monkhood.  He trained to be a monk and actually became one, but left when he discovered hypocrisy.   Monks originally believed in refraining from things of the world, but then it became more a commercial and profitable “business”.  He said that when you study to become a monk you cannot drink and do other worldy things, but when you become a monk you can.  They spend alot of money on the finest robes, etc. and he could not condone that hypocrisy.   He left and now does organic farming.  He seems very happy with his choice as he loves working outdoors and with his hands.  When rice is not being grown, he works on building additions and improvements to his home.  He did use a machine to cut and bundle the rice, Thank goodness!   Then we picked up the stacks and put them on racks to dry.  Tedious work and hard in the hot sun. He does this mostly by himself, with temporary help from his mother and father who are visiting from Germany.

Sado is known as the breeding grounds for the crested ibis or toki as the Japanese call it.  They were declared extinct in japan in 2003, but with breeding birds from China, they have come back to about 500 living in Japan.  They only live in Japan, Korea, China and parts of Russia. 

Another fabulous adventure was a “stone age” experience. In Sado there is a place which practices ancient ways of doing things. They “fired” earthenware (pottery) which was made over a year ago in the fire on the beach. There was a master who showed us how to carve toys and other objects from bamboo. We made our lunch over the fire and shared our meal together. After lunch we made holes in the ground to assist with irrigation and put iron and leaves in the holes. Last, but not least, we did a beach clean up.

Another awesome adventure was joining a taiko drumming class. Sado is know for their taiko drumming and this studio, Kodo, is one of the best. They did some introductory activities and we had quite the experience.

We also had the pleasure of working with some Niigata University students and brainstormed ways to keep Sado Island developing and growing. We talked about increasing modes of transportation, ways to engage the youth here and various ways to draw people to Sado for cultural activities

Keiko wanted us to replace some screen doors in the temple. You need to be careful not to accidentally tear the paper or it will have been all for nothing and you’d have to start again.  We also spackled the outside wall as the wall coverings are old, cracking and coming off.  They look better now, but probably should be totally replaced. 

I have been here for 2 weeks and will be leaving on Friday.  I will miss a local festival and much more. There always is something going on here.  Sado is a lively and culturally engaging island. It’s an early morning to Osaka. Must take the ferry, a bus, then the train to Osaka. It will take all day. I should arrive in Osaka by 6 pm. After a few days there I will head to Taiji in Wakayama to visit Hiromi, my cousin. My dad grew up there and my mom lived a short while as well. It should be an interesting visit.

I will miss Keiko and the other volunteers. It has been a wonderful learning experience.

Sado Island is a charming and very interesting place.  It was a place of exile for many politicians and dissidents in the 1200’s. In the 1600’s gold and silver was discovered and it revitalized the island.  Sado became a melting pot of culture, entertainment and art.  As the gold ran out and people had a harder time living on an island detached from the mainland and the population decreased. Now they are left with an island which is fighting to keep it’s culture and history alive.  Younger people are leaving and many buildings have been abandoned.  There are less and less children to fill the schools.  The temples are having a hard time to survive as members have decreased and no one is left to take over. 

World Unite volunteers help clean temples and work to maintain and sustain Sado Island.  We live in a old temple that is inhabited only by the Buddhist monk’s mother.  The monk comes back from Kyoto maybe once a month to meet with people.  His mother, Keiko, works in the yard and maintains the property as best she can.  We help her as needed.  We also provide monetary assistance because the volunteers pay to work and live here.  Besides helping her, we also do other environmental and sustainable projects.   We made a type of genki balls.  We made the balls with rice, iron, charcoal and latic acid.  We were told, when these balls are dropped in the water assist in revitalizing the ocean. 

We planted flowers to attract bees and made a home for bees to nest in. 

We also went to another Buddhist temple and did sweeping, vacuuming and dusting. 

We also learned about and visited the old historic buildings in Sado. 

Not to mention, going on a tub boat ride in the harbor. 

Everyday we seem to do something a little different. But all focused on sustainability.  

9/5
Well… arrived in Tokyo after an 8 hour flight.  JAL was soo good.  Instantly I could tell this trip will be different… no one hardly spoke during the daytime flight and most stayed nicely in their seats.  We got 2 small meals.  I pre ordered vegetarian and got pasta and fruit for my first meal, then bread and veges and more fruit for my second.  While the others got rice, pork or chicken stir fry for their first meal and turkey corssoint and hagen daz ice cream for their second meal.  The ice cream is the only thing wish I had different. 
Upon arriving in Japan the entry was efficient.  No long lines and very easy.  Decided on a taxi to my hotel instead of metro transport.  The line just brought me there with ease.  The ride was only 30 minutes from Haneda, but my stomach was quizzy.  So many tunnels and concrete buildings and narrow streets.  Thought might throw up, but just made it.  What a concrete jungle!
Settled in my ryokan onsen hotel.  After resting, walked the neighborhood and found 2 7-11’s and a grocery store.  Bought some variety of goodies from 7-11.  My first quick meal was a noodle bowl from there.  That settled my stomach somewhat.

Went to the onsen on the top floor. First time for me at a real japanese onsen. You get naked and must shower first. Took me awhile to figure out how to simply turn on the shower. Much less figure how to make the water flow to change faucets, from the lower faucet to the shower head. Well after showering off, I went in the onsen. Felt awesome. Then I noted the ladies still showering while sitting on the wooden stiils. They took so long, even washed their hair before going in the onsen. Guess I showered too fast and was suppose to wash my hair?
Slept the best I have for a long time. The bed was comfortable, but the room is small. If I were with another person it would be too cramped. I read reviews about this, but couldn’t imagine when they said they hardly had room for their suitcase. I understand now and good thing I only have a carry on.
My uncle, Michio Kaino has been reaching out to me so we are going to meet tomorrow in front of Yokohama station.
I have to learn better habits… no elbows on table, sit nicely don’t gobble food… wait patiently. Wow… now I know why my mom got after me sometimes… but we do live in America!
Met Michio at Yokohama station. Finding my way to Yokohama was ok, but after arriving finding the department store he wanted to meet at was a maze. Many levels so knowing where it is following goggle maps is tricky. Well got there 10 minutes early and saw him right away. We conversed through goggle translator mostly. He brought me to a ship, one like mom and dad went to America on, we toured it then went across the street up to Marine Tower where we could get a good view of Yokohama – another concrete jungle.

Made our way back to the station and had some yummy ramen. Said our goodbyes and off to take the train back to Shinjuku. On my walk way back to my hotel I saw what Shinjuku is famous for. The lights and projections on the buildings.

Another onsen tonight, but tomorrow the onsen will be even better at the base of Mt Fuji.
Well Mt Fuji did not disappoint. Went to the 5th Station, which is as high as you can go without hiking. It is where the hikers begin. I am not hiking this time. As it is cold and I didn’t want to spend the days nor bring the clothes. It was cold enough where we went. Lots of tourists and things to buy.

Went to this town where the pools are “magical”. Reflecting pools and you can get water from the mountain that tastes very pure.
Went to the hot springs and it was heavenly. Couldn’t take pictures in the onsen, but this was the view I got while soaking. Was quite a meditative time for me. I reflected on my two close dance friends that recently passed away (one while dancing with me). My tears mingled with the water and as I gazed at Mt Fuji. I saw two clouds representing them and a group of clouds on the side representing me and my other dance friends. Soon the two of them dissipated and I was left with the vision of me and my dance friends. We will carry on and it is good.

Woke up to a typhoon.  Tried to walk to station, but too windy and rainy so went back for a short while.  Then braved again.  Going to PlanetLab Tokyo this afternoon.  It is indoors so should be fine.  After an hour wait, finally got in and it was fabulous.  I love art and it is being one with the art.  Soo cool.  The lights and mirrors so effective.  The water adds a new dimension. I loved all the exhibits!

Tsukiji Market. Hugh fish market in Shinagawa. Took a guided tour and had some yummy sashimi and lunch.

Then took a walk to find godzilla. Found him finally and just in time for his little bit of smoke coming from his mouth.

Going for Mario Kart at 4. Gotta find my way there on the metro. It has been nothing but challenging to figure out the train schedules here. Even my way to the station changes as it depends which part of the station you want to go or where Google maps takes you to. The station is huge and which part goggle maps takes you to can change. Best to find a specific location.
Found my way to Monkeykart Shinagawa. Met other riders there from Singapore. It was great fun. Very scary… kind of terrifying. To be in the middle of traffic so low to the ground. We passed Harajuku, it looked interesting with all the little cafes and coffee shops. I want to stay near there next time in Tokyo. Shibuya Crossing was something else. I gotta go back there and cross with everyone. The ride was one hour thirty minutes and I could have gone longer. Didn’t want to stop… was just getting the handle of it.

Well…my time in Tokyo has ended for now. On to Sado Island … I must travel to Niigata. I have to ride 2 trains, one Shinkansen, one bus and a ferry to get there. A challenge, but, as my son says, it is fun and it is an experience. I started early and made the 2 trains, but on the Shinkansen I had reserved seats. Couldn’t find my seat and by mistake ended up in first class… oops. Then train man took me to another seat. Problem is I went on a train too early and that is where reserved seats do matter. On the ticket, though, I didn’t look at the time stamp. Oh well, he said “next time”. So hopefully I am now not sitting in someone else’s seat.

Everything went fine and I ended up early in Niigata waiting for the car ferry. Had time for some curry and udon while I waited.

The ferry ride was awesome. It was huge and the birds flew overhead catching the breeze and hoping someone would throw them some food, which, of course, people did.

Made it to Sado Island and was met by World Unite staff. They brought 2 of us to the temple where we will stay.

We shall see what the next 2 weeks will bring…