Dubrovnik

Not to be excluded.  Dubrovnik is the king.  So much to do and see here.  Kinda wish I were staying longer.  My host met me at the Ploce gate and helped me with my luggage to the apartment.   It is the biggest place I have had yet.  It is very nice.  Though up 5 flights of steps.  He told me about the Dubrovnik pass which gets me into city walls and other museums as well as free bus pass.  I will do the 3 day one.

My welcome
Beautiful greeting
On the way to my place

Walked city walls.  Quite impressive. Great views.  Did the Game of Thrones walk.  The guide was wonderful.  Even though I am not a follower of the series, it made no difference because I still learned a lot.  He included facts about Dubrovnik and how the city has changed due to the notoriety of the series.  The scenery here is magnificent. No wonder this is a location for many movies and series.  Everything is massive and it is so impressive. 

Guide showing us scenes from the series
Massive city walls and the fort
Scenes from the series
Balls yet to be propelled
View from the fort
More scenes
Famous Walk of Shame. Residents were paid up to $300 a shade to keep windows closed during filming.
Recognize him from Game of Thrones?
This sign designates UNESCO heritage spots

I really wanted to go to Ston so took the bus from Dubrovnik.  Easy getting there.  I walked to the bus station in Dubrovnik cuz I had time and the path took me up the big mountain.  Had a wonderful view.  Walked up a lot stairs to get there.  Once in Ston the walls and steps seemed daunting, but I came to walk so I did it.  Not as bad as it looks.  Koko head stairs is much worse.  Ston is famous for oysters so had to try some.   They were good but I had better ones from Olympia Washington.  These oysters were on the small side.   Still tasted good though.   Learning the bus system was alittle tricky, but i was finally getting it.  I had the 3 day bus pass so figured I’d use it.

Ston walls… up and over
The beginning
My treat at the end… oysters fried and broiled with cappuccino, of course

Found my way to the Cave Bar in Lapad.  Took the bus to get there. Went to the nearby beach first.  This beach was sandy.  Didn’t go for a swim, but enjoyed the sun.  Went to the Cave Bar to watch the sunset.  It was nice, but I wanted to sit out side rather than inside the cave.   Sunsets were always awesome. 

Beach in Lapad
This is a sandy beach
Actually small pebbles
The Cave Bar
Enjoying my beer

… and my cheesy fries
The beautiful sunset
Never get tired of sunsets

Next day I took the ferry to Lopud Island.   It has only 300 inhabitants and no cars.   It was pretty cool.   The beach Sunj was nice.   The water was cool but refreshing.   Ferry was late going back and we had to change boats midway.   Little confusing but I made it back to Dubrovnik.

Ferry to Lopud Island
Nice seats
Made it there
Beautiful sandy beach
Yes… sand indeed
Water so clear you can see the fish
An old monastery there
The harbor

Well my excursion to Montenegro was cancelled due to lack of people so I changed my plans.  Decided to take the ferry to Lokrum Island nearby.  You might know Lokrum island from Game of Thrones.  It is also known as the island of peacocks.  Nobody lives there.  It was inhabited before monks.  They were forced to leave by someone if power and legend has it that they cursed it to this who might live there later.  It went through hands of Austrian monarchy of which some went insane or killed.  There is a fort there now, and monastery and a botanical garden. 
I found it quite charming.   Loved the peacocks roaming freely.   Then I walked up to the fort.   It was quite an awesome hike, but was very nice up at the top.  What an awesome view.  This is where they could really watch for incoming ships.   Walking through the fort,  I found it fascinating.   It was also a lovely place to view the ocean from.  Caught the ferry back and headed to the cable car. 

Peacock family
Ruins of the wall
The monastery
Chair from Game of Thrones filmed on Lokrum Island
Beautiful peacock
Stairs inside the fort
View from the top
Spiraling stairs
Now the peacocks own the island

Since the cable car in Dubrovnik was closed yesterday I didn’t want to miss it.  A little wait to get on but made it to the top.  Went to the war museum.   Found it very interesting and disturbing.  The seige of Dubrovnik started October of 1991.  Wasn’t that long ago. Yugoslavia wanted them to succeed. It lasted for 7 monrhs.  The Croatians held them off to their surprise.  Dubrovnik and the old city walls were bombed.   Very sad.  The resilience of the people held off the aggressors.  Finally peace was negotiated and they formed their own government.  The old city was rebuilt, but remnants of the war remain in the hearts of the people and in the decimated buildings where bullet holes remain to remind them to never forget.  Amazing that this was only 30 years ago.  The older people remember but the young ones do not… only through the stories.  One of my guides said he was 2 and his mother and grandmother hid in the bathroom for days.  The strength and fortitude of the Croatian people hold true today.  As I leave this country I will never forget.  The history and the magnificence of this place live on.  There are places I wish to come again and places I never made it to.   Part of my heart will stay here and I hope to someday come back.  he history and the magnificence of this place live on.  There are places I wish to come again and places I never made it to.   Part of my heart will stay here and I hope to someday come back. 

The fort thst withstood the advances
Inside
Intact hallways
Staircases
Bullet holes remain
Damaged but not defeated
The sunsets from the top of Dubrovnik
Saying goodbye
A final look
Massive arches
Beautiful city

My time in Croatia has ended, but it has left a place in my heart.  It is massive and yet a small country.  It holds so much from the beautiful Istrian area of truffles and more, to the Kuterevo Bear reserve with its wonderful people, to all the waterfalls and the beautiful islands full of wonder and beauty, to the historical Split and the dominant Dubrovnik, one could not ask for more.  Croatia is a magical place.  A place that will leave you wanting for more…

Zadar

Went directly to the Sea Organ and Sun Salutation.   It was awesome, just too many people.  Gotta come back for sunset and sunrise. 
Looked around the old city.  The forum ruin with the cathedral and bell tower is awesome.

Lovely view of Zadar
Beautiful day
Steps of the Sea Organ
More people arrive
… and more people closer to sunset
The lighthouse near the dock
The crosswalk from old town to new town
A cheese platter
A resting cat
Nikola Basic, the architect, who designed both the Sea Organ and Sun Salutation
One of many beautiful sunsets
Getting to that magic time
Silhouettes in the sunset
The sun saluation begins on sunset
Solar energy stored in the solar panels exhibit upon dark
The openings through which the sea music comes out

I got up at 3:30 in the morning to beat the crowds and to take some videos.  Just gotta dance to the music of the sea and do the sun Salutation on the solar energy panels.  It worked.  No one was there and my place is so close.

Video doesn’t seem to come out here… but trust me – it was music to my soul.


Leaving for Dubrovnik tomorrow.  Lots of things there to do. Then off to meet Rosa and David and Malika in Naples. 

The solar panels near night fall
The cathedral and the old bell tower
The harbor
Night time…

I loved Zadar and the Sea Organ and Sun Salutation.   That was the reason I came and it did not disappoint.  Now on to Dubrovnik.

Split Once Again

My new place in Split is in a better location.  Easier to find and bigger.  Looking forward to the boat excursion to Blue Cave, Hvar, and other locations.  Maybe this time I will be able to go and it won’t be canceled due to the weather.  Found some new stores inside and outside the Palace.

Walk along the Riva

Then I got the text, excursion canceled due to high winds.  Well, I quickly made plans to go to Trogir on the bus.  It will be good.  I will get to know the bus system and see another location that was on my list. 

The main square in Trogir
The church, has a Roman influence
Inside the church
Inside the church

Trogir was lovely.  I walked to the beach then saw the cathedral and the beach is really nice.  Chilly this morning so not swimming, but it is beautiful.  Went up the bell tower.  It is a very windy day today (good thing the boat excursion was cancelled).  It was scary as I felt like I might be blown away.  I made it up then down with a little shaky knees.  Visited the cathedral.   It was built in the 1200s. A very impressive cathedral with an old historical feel. 

The beach in Trojir
Rocky beach
A snail finding a comfy place on a wall
The bell tower
Long journey up
The beginning and the end
View from top
From the top

Made it back to the bus station with no problem. Bus not coming though.  Think it is late.  I got impatient and went to the other bus that said it was going to Split.  It did, but made more stops and I had to pay an extra 2 erous and it ended at city area about 15 minutes from my place.  It was ok, though, but I should have just waited for the other bus. 

Smoke salmon on toast
Love my cappuccino

The excursion to Krka National Park the next morning was great.  Lots of people, but the guide made it nice.  He was funny and entertaining.  Met some great people from Ireland and the States. 

Waterfalls at Krka
Magnificent waterfalls
Another veiw
More…
Love how you can see the fish through the water

Left the next morning at 6 in the morning for Zadar.  Early morning, but it was good because bus not that crowded.  Beautiful scenery along the way.  Sibineck looks like an interesting place to visit if I come back.  Lovely seaside town.  I slept most of the way and was a bit groggy upon reaching Zadar.

Motovun

Went to Motovun to go truffle hunting and didn’t realize I would be stepping into a magical world.  I stayed in Old Town.  It is a town on top of a hill.   Surrounded by castle walls.  Bathed in fog in the early morning.  It unveils itself as the sun rises.  It is a beautiful sight to behold.  Gives me indescribable energy and brings peace. 

The Old Town is at the top of the hill
Early morning fog
Found a friend celebrating her birthday as well but with 40 friends!
Old Town is above the fog
Slowly emerging
Looks like clouds, but actually fog
Gives me energy and a sense of peace
Slowly the fog lifts

Legend has it that Motovun was built by giants. The giants were able to pass rocks and tools to each other in building these hilltop towns.  Legend and stories by Vladimir Nazor told of Veli Jože, the gentle giant was so strong he could shake the bell tower with his bare hands.

Legends of giants
Building Motovun

Some new age scientists believe this small town is special because of its location at the intersection of the energy meridians of the Earth, the so-called Dragon Lines.  These meridians carry the positive life energy of the Earth through the landscape, and a powerful source of positive energy is created at their intersections, through which the planet Earth breathes. Such an energy charge has a relaxing and calming effect on people, increasing their concentration and spirituality, making them feel rested and invigorated. It is also good for meditation, develops creativity and, perhaps the most beautiful of all, increases tolerance.  No wonder i felt so much peace there.

Motovun is surrounded by forests, and it emerges from on top of its hill on foggy mornings – the forests contain the kingdom of truffles, the famous subterranean fungi. No wonder Motovun was magical.
I ate nothing, but truffles.  Of course I did eat a gelato and a chocolate croissant, but everything else was with truffles. 
Leaving the magic, perhaps to return one day, I went back to Split. 

Miro and his dogs
Good boy!
A black truffle
A white truffle
Our find for today.  The black worth about $7.  The white more than twice that much.
Bread with truffles spread, truffle salad and truffle cheese, and prosciutto
Scrambled eggs with truffles
Ginochi with truffles sauce
2.8 lb truffle found in Motovun
Truffle and asparagus soup
Taiggatelli with truffles sauce
Truffle bushetta
… but a gelato… oh yes!

Needless to say, I loved Motovun.  It is truly a magical place and I hope to return one day.  I met some wonderful people.  The owners of a coffee shop in a historical building is a Filipino family and their son was a joy to talk to.  The owner of the apartment I rented made sure I was comfortable and helped me with transportation.  I felt the energy and peace of the place and some day I will return.

The coffee shop in a historical building
Roman influence
At the very top of the hill, the bell tower
The entrance… notice the chute at the top where they could drop things to deter unwelcome guests
Quaint streets
My apartment on the left
Where lovers would announce their intentions
The main square
Truffle shop across my apartment
Good morning
Good night
See you again…

Final Thoughts on Kuterevo

The Bears…
8 bears in the refuge with the oldest Bruno, my favorite. He’s tired but still loves to play, eat, and chase Matija. The youngest, Matija, grabs food when he can and plays with sticks like a child. The only female, Mlada Gora, struts around at ease and is the smallest and cutest of all, shying away from Mladi Dol, the dominant one. Marko Kralj looks for food as he bathes in the sun. Ljubo Lik, Blago Zoo, and Vlad Mir rule the top of the complex as they forage for food while occasionally interacting with each other.

Mlada Gora, the lady
Waiting for food
We just wanna be friends
Mladi Dol exhibits his dominance
At the top of the refuge
Taking a dip
Bruno at 50 years of age
Marko Kralj is a little itchy
Bruno shines like a sunflower

The Refuge…
What a place! A refuge for bears as well as for humans. The quiet solitude of this place offers a sanctuary for all. Co-existence is the key as we learn how to work together in harmony. Whether it be in picking plums, gathering fruit, moving branches, packing bread or honey or cooking meals. Getting to know volunteers and visitors from around the world, if we embrace it, enhances our lives. The work is hard, but the benefits are many.

Plums!
Packaging and hanging bread
Moving vats to ready for plums
Plums to make brandy
The many painted planks – an all day job
Picking mushrooms
Jars of honey we packed, another all day project
We buried a baby cub found in the wild who did not survive on his own
The bear cemetery
A tour of school children
Items in the shop

The Learning…
I learned about the compassion of people as visitors from around the world thanked me for what we were doing. Some even shed tears. I was surprised at the immense impact this place has on visitors as well as volunteers. This place is more than just about the bears. It’s about animal to human, human to human and human to nature relationships. I am in awe at the vast respect and learning we can gain from one another as we exist and manage together. 

The Thanks…
I appreciate the nice lodging provided to me with the warm shower, cozy bed and friendly host.
The meals were great and prepared by all. Many creative things cooked out of carrots, onions, garlic, other vegetables, eggs, flour, milk, pasta, rice and cheese as well as various local fruits. It was interesting that the various personalities were displayed in what we cooked. Visits to the nearby bar provided more socialization and relaxation. 

The last group of volunteers with me
We made a pumpkin pie from a pumpkin
Volunteer friends
Yummy mushrooms
These are the pumpkins we used to make the pie
One of the French chefs and the souffle he made!
Another yummy dish
Cutting veges together
And more mushrooms
Another group of volunteers
More volunteers together at the bar
We had fun socializing over dinner

Final Thoughts…
This experience is not for the faint of heart. One must be able to work hard and endure rudimentary conditions (i.e, no running hot water in the volunteer station, compost toilets, etc.).  Anyone can do it as long as they have a willing spirit.  It is hard work, but working with people from around the world makes everything better.  We develop bonds as we share the load.  All for the benefit of the bears.  Many days working in the shop forced me to greet people and communicate even if I couldn’t speak their language.  To my amazement, I could do it.  That is one reason for the rule to keep your hands out of your pockets.  Hands help you to communicate.  I truly enjoyed meeting people from around the world. 
This experience of volunteering at this refuge has been nothing but amazing.  Yes, hard work, but worthwhile as I learned to connect with other people, the animals, and nature. 
We need to recognize the oneness of this earth and do what we can to make it a better place for all.  Even if only for a few days, this experience can enhance your outlook on life.  Practice frugality, learn compassion, and express kindness as you navigate throughout life.  People and experiences pass through our lives, but they may make impacts that can last a lifetime or more.  Meet new people and try new experiences. Expand your horizons to continue an awesome life.  May the bear spirit follow you wherever you go.

The end
or just another beginning