Author Archives: roxanne

Another fabulous place.  I am staying right off Dubar Square, which is an old ancient castle grounds with the palace and many temples.  It is like a whole historic square.   Wonderful stores, street vendors and temples.  I went to the tourist office and found out tourists need a ticket to go into any of the temples.  It is only 1000 nrs ($7) and you can have it for as long as you desire.  I met a guide there, and he showed me around.  Beautiful palace and temples.  The king built Buddhist and Hindu temples so close together in hopes of drawing more people to the area.

Well, I can’t get a flight to Lumbini like I wanted.  Planes are booked because of the holiday Dashain and due to roads being close due to landslides.  So flights to lumbini are hard to get, but I got a ticket to Pokhara, which was also on my list.  It is a beautiful place near the Himalayas and a hiking place.  Flew in here and got 4 nights at a 4 star hotel very near the Lakeside area.  First day, I walked to Lake Phewa and cruised through all the street vendors and stores along the way.  Decided to have dinner at the hotel as it had good reviews.   I had a thali plate. 

It was as good as expected.  My tummy felt a little funny that night, and later that morning, I had a case of diarrhea.   So I canceled my tour for that day and slept most of the day.  Next day was a little better, so hired a driver and went to see the cave, the stupa, and the peace memorial.  Took a swing above the clouds and walked to the World Peace Memorial.  It was quite awesome there as it was peaceful and beautiful.  

The next day, I felt better and caught my flight back to Kathmandu.   Planes was delayed for about an hour, but I finally got on and made it back to Kathmandu.   This hotel was different, The Thrive, in the Thamel area.  This is a wonderful shopping district to a lot of sites.  Another 4 star hotel, so it is nice.  Has a spa, but no pool, jacuzzi, or hot tub.  The first day, I walked around and explored the area.  Love the shops.  Now I can buy a little more, because after my trek going to discard many of my heavy clothes items.  The next day, I walked to a Buddhist temple high on a hill.  Got a guide upon arrival.  He has a brother who lives in Homer Alaska, of all places, and is a fisherman.  He met his wife when he was a tour guide.  The wish of many of the local single guys here.  The temple was quite interesting with a phenomenal view of Kathmandu, if you like that sort of thing… at least there weren’t lots of skyscrapers.  Of course, he took me to a mandala shop where I ended up buying a beautiful painting.  They get me everytime… I said I wasn’t going to do this again, but the painting was quite awesome.  I could have bought the one painted by students for half the price. Of course, I opted for the one done by a professional.   I could tell the difference and figured I wanted to support the arts. 

The next day I explored around.  Went to the Art Museum and tried to go to another museum and shopping center, but all closed due to the holiday Dashain.  Dashain is a 15 day celebration where families get together, and the elders bless you.  Many are walking around with red rice pasted on their foreheads.  The bigger the glob means, they have a big family.  Many shops are closed. But I still managed to find many open and still bought some things!  I ate a Tibetan soup, due to a tender stomach.  Have to be in tip top shape for the hike in 2 days.  The soup is kinda like ramen, but with califlower,  peas, spinach, and carrots.  Eased my tummy.  Had a ginger mint tea, too.  That was yummy.

The Pashupatinath Temple was quite something as was cremation site next to it

I did a little shopping today.  Bought pants then went on my way to the art museum, which was great, but didn’t stay that long, so I set out to go to the Royal Palace.  When I got there it was closed for Dashain as was the shopping center next to it.  So I had coffee and started to head back.  Then I realized I didn’t have my water bottle.  Oh shoot… where did I leave it.  Stopped at the museum, and it wasn’t there.  Figured it was at the shop where I bought the pants.  Now, if only I can find that shop… they all look the same.  I set on my way and back tracked a little, but I found it!!  He had kept my bottle aside for me.  As a result I bought 3 blouses!  Then, set back towards the hotel.  Stopped at another shop to look at some more pants.  The lady there was nice.  We talked and I looked.  Her husband showed up, and he could talk even better English.  I ended up buying 4 pairs of short pants.  Went to the  hotel and met up with my trekking company.   He discussed a few things, and then I went for a walk.  Passed the store and sat down for a while to talk story.  They were really nice.  She is going to have a baby in 3 months.  They were kind of an arranged marriage, and it looks like it’s working out. He said they are older, so I think that’s why things are going well.  He runs the store and she works in a finance office. But will quit for a year to take care of the baby. 

They walk to and from work, about a 30 minute walk.  I told him I would stop by after my trek on Oct 30th when I return from my Mt Everest Base Camp trek.

So nervous… waiting for my ride.  Helicopter in 20 min!!!

A spiritual journey and more.  If I thought Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur were full of sights, smells, and sounds… Varanasi still has it all.  Just not as many people and much less honking, but the cows and dogs are everywhere.   The streets are small and narrow  and go on endlessly, but you’ll eventually find your way out to the main street. 

My b & b was close to Assi Ghat, so that is the first place I went. Then I followed Google maps to the burning Ghat, but got lost because the road it tells you to go is no longer there (due to flooding).  So I finally asked this one guy on another ghat, and he said I was going the wrong way.  He volunteered to bring me to another smaller burning ghat.  So I said yes, he seemed nice enough. He actually stopped at a Hindu temple and brought me inside.  He is a devote Hindu as he prayed at every entrance and statue.  His name is Avinash.  He speaks some English.  Young guy… 29 and looking for an American girlfriend or wife.  He said that he is poor and it is hard to survive in Varanasi.   We talked, and he shared his life and asked questions about America.  They rent his house and would like to be able to buy a place, but they don’t have the money.  He said the Indian government does nothing to help the poor.  His sister got a teaching degree but can not find a job.  He lives with his sister, mom, and dad.  All families live together here out of desire and necessity.  I feel for him.  We talked, and he said he’d get a boat and we could go to see sunrise tomorrow morning.  I said ok.  He showed me my way home, and we parted ways. 

You know the guides seem to always keep in contact if they have your info.  Probably because they hope to make more money from you or to get referrals. Things here have much to do about trying to make money.  There are not many jobs for the poor.  They pray so much to their God’s and continue to live hard lives.  Some say that they are not happy.  Makes me sad.  then I went home to have dinner.  It was yummy, as usual.

Well, the next morning I got to out meeting place at 5:30 but no sign of him.  I kept calling to no avail.  Finally, he answered and said he slept in.  I said no problem, them made my way to the other burning ghat. The more famous one, Manikarnika Ghat.  Again, goggle maps direct me to unavailable streets.  So when I reached another ghat, a young kid came up and offered to take me there.  He spoke English well and I liked him so ok.  I’m glad I did. I don’t think I would have found it on my own. When we are finally there, he introduces me to the man in charge who gives me a tour and explains things.  Of course, at the end, the man in charge of the burning asks for money to help buy logs for the poor, who can not afford it.  He goes so far as to tell me how much for what size body.  I agree to give some, but of course, not enough. So I give a little more and say that is all I can do.  Then the man who brought me around asks me for some money for him and his family.  I hesitate,  but give in and give him a little.  We walked back through the winding roads, and I gave the young man who brought me there something, like around $5.  All this asking for money is making me tired and cranky.  I understand, but it is a little irritation. 

Then, I decided to head to  Assi Ghat to watch the evening Aarti (a performance honoring the Ganges River). Before that, I stopped at a restaurant, Aum, and had a smoothie. I met a lady from Japan named Eiko here studying the sitar musical stringed instrument for 6 months.  We had a great time chatting.  Still had time to pass, so I walked around and then went to another restaurant, Maya’s right next door to Aum.  I met another lady who happened to be from Vermont and is a travel writer, named Jen Rose Smith  How neat that is.  We had a great time chatting and sharing stories.  We shared info so we could follow each other’s happenings.  I stayed there and chatted with the owner, Maya.  She was so interesting.  Runs the place with her 2 sons.  They serve the poor every Monday, and sometimes, she brings food out to the community.  We chatted for a couple of hours, and I was the only customer.
Then I made it to the Ghat and started filming and taking pictures. It lasted about 2 to 3 hours.  I was determined to stay till the end because I wasn’t going back the next day or morning.   Me and Avinash had agreed to try the sunrise boat ride again the next morning.

Well, wouldn’t you know it, but the next morning, the gate to my place, they could get it open. They had the wrong key or something.  So I didn’t leave my place till the time I was supposed to meet him. He said it was OK so I went. Got to the Ghat, but the boat wasn’t there.  He kept calling and finally said we were ok.  1500 rs, and I could ride. That’s about 17 us dollars.
In the meantime, I got to see many locals doing their bathing, worshipping, etc. That part was neat. 

Finally the boat came and we went out.  We didn’t miss the sunrise.  What a gorgeous sun. I’ve never quite seen anything like that.  He says it is every morning. What a blessed place. 

Then we walked back and ran into Eiko from yesterday.  We talked, and we all shared info, cuz I never got her info before.  We went towards the Ghat, and he got me the best honey ginger tea I have ever had from this vendor on the street.  I paid Avinash 3000 rs ($22.) for taking me around. When we passed kids begging, he gave them something.  He said you give me and I give them. He said he never slept last night, so I told him to go home and sleep.  I went to Maya’s again and talked with her the whole morning.  Again, I was her only customer. I don’t have the extra money to give her now, but I will try when I get home, and my finances are stabilized.   Well, I wandered the streets some more and decided to check out this restaurant and just get a little something and work on my phone.  After I got there, Eiko called me.  I told her to come join me for lunch.  The restaurant was on a rooftop and was very nice.  The owner was very friendly.  After some time, Eiko showed up, and we had a great time sharing stories.   She has had an interesting past.  Used to be a tour guide, yoga teacher, and such.  It’s not the norm for a Japanese woman. Her husband likes to stay home, so he doesn’t mind if she leaves for extended times. 
Then another single lady showed up.  She is Malaysian. She was very talkative and interesting.  We had a great time talking.  She said she’s been doing solo traveling for about 20 years.  She is in her forties now and very beautiful.  Very friendly with lots of information.  We walked out together, and I followed her to a store just to look. another new contact to follow.

The next morning, I left for Kathmandu. 

Varanasi holds a special place in my heart because of the people I met there and its unique qualities as the spiritual capital. It is a place I might go back to. 

In Agra now.  Saw the awesome Taj Mahal.  Beautiful and breathtaking… just amazed at the marble inlay.  The photographer was great. Took some really nice photos and videos for me. 

But then he took me to a marble shop that had real nice marble inlay pieces.   Did not really want to buy due to transport issues, but they talked me into it.  Gotta watch myself… they are smooth talkers.  Then he took me to this jewelry place… oh no!  Wasn’t planning to, but. But spent a ton on an earing necklace set of india star ruby.  It is beautiful,  but I paid way too much!!
Lesson learned!! 
Roxie.. don’t be a sap!  Gotta watch out.  But the things I bought I like, but too high priced and no room to carry back.  i do want to buy things in Rajasthan and Kerala too.
The next day, I had a guide, whom I really liked. Took me to Red Fort, the baby Taj and Akbar tomb.  Soo many wonderful mausoleums here..  beautiful craftmenship and architecture.   Had some real awesome food too.  Authentic Indian food.  I just love the food!

Jaipur is an awesome place.  The history is crazy.  I loved the Amer Fort and the Monkey Temple. The Amer fort had this beautiful glass room or palace made with mirrors and silver tiles.
The Monkey Temple was fun.  The monkeys they feed and they stay and eat and swim in the holy temple water. This water flows from where they don’t know.  They say scientists came here to try and find the source, and they couldn’t.   That is why they call it holy water.  The Hindus come here to dip in the water to cleanse their souls.  Some kids come to just swim.  Some come to perform play. When they have issues or problems, there is a ceremony to rid them of it. 

The culture here is interesting to say the least. This part of India is primarily Hindu.  They don’t eat meat and pray 5 times daily.  They feed the animals, birds, cows, dogs, etc, so that they can get good karma.  You can buy food for the birds roadside from the many vendors and feed the birds.  So there is no waste they give all leftovers to the animals.  As you can imagine, the streets are full of trash.  The traffic is endless.  Honking non stop.  My ears were hurting by the end of the day.  Will see how Varanasi is…

A long taxi ride to Agra (4hrs) but time went pretty good  a short bathroom stop along the way.  Got to my destination and the volunteer house is located in a gated community.  Very quiet and peaceful here.  I took a long walk down the street. It is hot and humid.  Thank goodness for ac in the rooms. 

I am the only volunteer.  Maybe someone is coming today.  Nope no one came.  That means I will get alot of attention.  It was humid and hot today.  High 80’s.  The bear rescue place is  something else.  The practice of dancing bears was outlawed in 1972, but it took 30 years for it to be eliminated.   The practice was kept alive due to the Kalendar people (kinda like gypsies) who relied on dancing bears for their livelihood.  The practice is inhumane, violent, and tragic.  They would insert a heated metal rod into the babie’s snout and tie a rope of metal ring so that they can control the bears and make them “dance”.  The sloth bears they have at SOS have been rescued or turned in.  SOS has also worked hard at providing and teaching other ways for the Kalander families to make money.  The taught them sewing and jewelry making and employed some of the men.  The bears have pens but are allowed to roam in enclosed areas.  Some still bob their heads in habit as they were previously taught.  It is a horrible practice.  The rescue center feels that in India, at least, the bears had their last dance.  This practice still goes on in other countries, like Russia.

Next I visited the elephant rescue.  This was just as traumatic.  These Indian elephants have been rescued from inhumane practices.  Some from circuses, some were begging elephants and others from riding or parading elephants.   In order to get the elephants to do what man wants, they have to physically break the elephant.  It is called phajaan.   They hurt them to get them to do what they want.  They use physical punishment.  They don’t want to kill them. Just bring them to that point where they learn to obey.  The elephants resuced have sores or scars on their legs from years of torture.  It makes me soo sick when I think about it. Some of the elephants rescued need constant medical treatment.  Others die from their injuries.  There are 16 currently at the one shelter.  They built another center across the way, and they also built an elephant hospital.  It was impressive.  I got to visit the hospital.  Made for these massive animals.

It has been a busy, awesome one week stay.  I have learned so much.  Everyone has been wonderful!  I do want to come back someday soon.  To tell you how it has impacted me would take to long, and I have little words but lots of feelings.  Each of the centers are impressive.  The staff work soo hard and are so dedicated.  The elephants eat almost all through the day, so it’s quite a chore to prepare and feed them. I couldn’t believe how much one elephant eats.  The bears eat alittle less, but non the less the work is endless.  The animals are treated so very well.  After their cruel lives, they finally have peace and can live out their lives happy.  The staff seem to acknowledge and are aware the animal’s welfare.  The elephants happiness are their main concern.  I am impressed how this organization has grown from the very beginnings in 1995.  The. Agra bear rescue facility started in 1999.  First bear rescued in 2002 and now they have 93 bears.  They have more or less eliminated the dancing bears in India.  I really like how they also helped the Kalander people get into different livelihoods.  They focused on the root of the problem, not just the problem
The elephant rescue center started in 2010  is so impressive. It has grown tremendously.  At present time a total of 36 as well the new baby Bani and they built an elephant hospital. They are looking to expand with another area.  There is still much work to do with the elephants in captivity. 
I canceled my safari in Chitwan because of elephant breeding and riding.  I’ve learned how abusive and unnatural it is so I do not want to endorse any agency that participates in such.  They have an elephant breeding center (they force the females to mate), and they do elephant rides.  Don’t let anyone tell you the elephants want to give you a ride.  It is unnatural, and they “train” the elephants to do so.  I hope to spread the word about the work SOS does and encourage people to help in any way possible.  The issue with the temple elephants is horrible.  They “train” the elephants to stand in one place for hours and endure massive noise and riders.  These are Hindu or Buddhist believers, yet they mistreat the animals they worship so much.  I don’t understand the logic… pure hypocrisy. 

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The day after I left, Suzy died in her sleep.  It was a natural death from old age.  Glad that SOS was there to give her some final years of happiness. 

Check out some of the you tube videos…  all from Wildlife SOS channel… please subscribe.

https://youtu.be/Ef6feUHlzh4?si=2_IGoc2DAiqJ-Ki0

https://youtu.be/yhZZc5NgXoA?si=6r8y6xFK1Xj8LoUQ

Arrival in Delhi.  Lots of good omens on my way here.  Ran into Bridget Dahl from Petersburg and her new husband on the flight.  They are headed to Japan for a biking adventure.   It was a surprise to say the least. We had a good discussion on traveling and Petersburg. Then, after arrival in Tokyo, went to the priority lounge and met a young lady from Honolulu and going to the Phillipines.   She has been to Nepal and did the Everest Base Camp awhile back. It was great to share questions and answers with her.  We had a long time to talk as she had a long layover as well.  I made a new friend and it felt that we had known each other for a long time.   We will keep in contact, that’s for sure.

Upon arrival in Delhi the immigration line was very slow.  But finally got out and the driver was great and the host at the B & B was American and fun.   This is an old mansion that the family live in. They still live on the top floor.  He is on vacation, so Jana is working for him.   She is from Florida. She has been here for about a year.   She lives here and who knows what the future might bring for her.   I find it inspirational that people are willing to uproot themselves and follow their heart and dreams. 

The first day, I found myself trying to get a Sim card to no avail. Something was wrong with my passport, I am not sure but it was confusing.  So later in the evening, the young man helping me took me to a different place to get a Sim card.  It was way cheaper but not real sure how much data, as I couldn’t understand.   When I got home, the Sim didn’t work.  
That day, I took a tuk tuk to lotus temple.  What a beautiful temple.   I went in and took my time through the informational center.   Interesting history of the Bahia faith.   I love how they incorporate and embrace all the religions. 

Then the tuk tuk guy took me to a shopping area. Even against my wishes, but I complied.  I know better now.  I bought too much.  Spent way too much.  I got talked into these beautiful paintings.  He went from 400 for one down to 200 for 3.  Bought them, but I do like them.  Then he took me to other floors and they talked me into 2 scarves and 6 marble turtles.  When I left the store, I ran into the same tuk tuk guy.  I scolded him, but he was funny.  He was on my way to take me home, but we stopped at another store because I  said I wanted to go to the spice market.  He took me to another market, not the real spice market.  I only bought some packages of spices there.

The traffic is crazy here.  Soo much honking, beeping, cars, motorcycles, tuk tuks and people… not to mention the cows and dogs.

The driver waited for me then proceeded to take me home, but he passed me off on another tuk tuk guy, cuz he didn’t want to leave the area. What an experience. 
The next morning I had to tell the young man that the Sim card didn’t work.   But after working with the new girl back at work, we determined that it was my phone, not the Sim card that wouldn’t work.  So I now I am just using the Sim in my new phone and using older phone for messages.   It’s ok… it’ll work fine.

Then I hopped on another tuk tuk and found my way to Humayan’s Tomb.   What a beautiful place.  Not quite sure why they need such beautiful tombs for their dead, but they are quite the works of art.  Went to Lodhi gardens.  Beautiful gardens with more beautiful buildings

Then I decided to walk to the india gate.  It was only 49 min in maps, so thought I’d get the exercise.  Well, it would have been ok, but the streets are so bad and I had to cross numerous streets.  I ran for my life across the streets, but I made it and took a rest at India Gate with flat Aubrey and flat Riley by my side.

Well another tuk tuk ride.  Every tuk tuk ride is scary.  There are no such things as lanes.  There may be 3 lines, but they make it 6 lanes.  It’s everyone for themselves, and they squeeze in anytime they can with honking galore.  I am surprised there aren’t more accidents, but I see alot of vehicles with dents and such.  Traffic is nuts!! 

The tuk tuk guy dropped me off at the Sikh temple where I wanted to go.  No one was there but the Granthis (Sihk priests) they seemed confused as to why I was there.  Then one told me I should head back the other way. When I made a face, he hopped on his motorcycle and gave me a ride.  It was exciting… riding of the back with Granthi driving me.  I held on tight for dear life. I never hugged a holy man so tight!! It was a bit fun, I have to admit.  He took me to the front by Humayan’s Tomb.  I was confused but ended up visiting the Sunder Nursery instead. it was very peaceful and beautiful there. Next trip, maybe I will try again to visit that Sihk Temple.
Maybe I was at the wrong entrance, or maybe it was closed. I don’t really know.

The next day was my tour with a guide for Chandni Chowk, the spice market and Red Fort.   He picked me up at my hotel and provided excellent service.  Red Fort was massive.  Then we walked to the market, took a ricksha ride through it.  Went to the spice market where I bought a bunch of spices.  Then off to the mosque temple.  Such beautiful places. 
They brought me back to my b n b and then I walked to deer park and enjoyed the green space and the monkeys.  Tried a momo at sea market.  Tastes just like a Chinese dumpling. Not sure what the hype is all about. 
Left for Agra and Wildlife SOS in the morning.  After saying goodbye to the house.  I booked my return stay here and they are holding my excess packages here (my paintings and the slices)  yea!!