Author Archives: roxanne

The ferry to Malta was easy to take.  Little choppy but not really a problem. The ride was 2 hour and 45 minutes.  Upon arrival my host met me and drove me to my stay in Senglea
I  chose to stay in Senglea rather than Valetta because his reviews were real good and seemed like it would be easy to get to Valetta from his place.  It was the best choice. 
Senglea is a beautiful place.  The yachts, the massive buildings and the beautiful architecture.   Spent the day walking to the forts, museums and churches.

The history of Malta is interesting.  Malta is located in a very desired location as a port connecting the African and the European continents.  Wanted as a trading port but also as a defensive fort.  Many countries came to control this little island in the Mediterranean Sea.  The first civilizations came from European and African continents.  Then a colonization from Sicily.  Around 218 BC, the Romans took control. It is said that in 60 AD, Paul was shipwrecked on Malta while on his way for trial in Italy.  Legend has it that Paul got bit by a vemenous snake, but did not die so the locals thought he must be a god.  Paul went on to perform other miracles.  As a result the Maltese adopted Christianity and you’ll find many churches and other references to St. Paul.  The Arabs came to conquer the country in 870 AD then the Normans took over in 1090 AD. The Aragons came in 1283 AD.  Then in 1530 AD the Knights of St John, later known as the Knights of Malta, were ” given” control of the islands by the Holy Roman Emperor.  In  1565 the Ottoman Turks tried to take control but failed and that famous battle was called the “Great seige”.  The Knights of Malta and Maltese army were able to hold off the Turks for 4 months until the Turks finally retreated.  In 1798, Napolean and the French took control, but the British  forces intervened took over. Then Malta became a British Colony.

During the time under Roman rule, Malta endured the Inquisition, as did Italy.  I went to a museum in Naples that displayed the torture and graphic descriptions of those accused or witnesses.  In Valetta, I visited the Inquisitor’s Palace. It was very disturbing.  I barely took pictures as it was too upsetting.  It was a way to make people conform to the “Catholic Church”.  You could get turned in for blasphemy or any type of “immorality”.  They used public punishment as a way of instilling fear and control.  Kinda makes me think we are heading that direction again. Especially in the way of no respect for human rights and not allowing people to be “different” than the norm. Well, Napolean actually put an end to the inquistion in Malta, but mainly to stop the Knights of St John’s control.  Malta rebelled against the French and in 1814 Malta became a British Commonwealth.  The Knights of Malta resurfaced after the French expulsion, but with more of a charitable and humanitartian purpose.  Fiinally in 1974 Malta became a Republic of it’s own and British forces finally withdrew in entirely by 1979.

So you can tell Malta has many influences that have formed their beliefs as well as their buildings and architecture.  Also, during WW11, Malta has the horrible distinction of being the most bombed per square millimeter. I visited many bomb shelters, with the best preserved one in Mellieha Malta.  There are many watchtowers, forts, castles, citadels, gunneries, batteries and viewpoints all over Malta.

Story is that Carravagio, after fleeing Italy due to a killing, was commissioned by the Grandmaster to do a painting for the Church.  He completed them but soon lost his temper, got into a brawl and wounded some Knights.  Carravagio was imprisoned, but later escaped.  The paintings remain in St John’s Co-Cathedral.

The shorelines are vast and some are sandy, but most are dominated by massive cliffs and rock formations.  It is an impressive and beautiful island. 

Valetta, the capital is very crowded, with cruise ships coming in daily bringing tourists from all over the world.  People have discovered this special place and are swarming here by the droves.  Good for the economy, but not so good if you don’t like lots of tourists.  I would recommend coming in the winter months, as it never gets too cold in Malta and definitely going to the smaller places.  Like the island Gozo.  I loved it there.

The scenery magnificent and the people genuine. I learned alittle about the Gozitan people as they are called.  Gozo, too faced much devastation.   The Ottoman Turks  in 1551 came to Gozo and raided and enslaved almost the whole population of 6000.  They took them to Turkey and most never returned.  It took over a century for Gozo to repopulate itself.  Today it is a vibrant community with proud people.  The island scenery is magnificent and it is so easy to commute around on the bus. 

I left Gozo after a week there.  Every day I went to a site more beautiful or just as than the other.
Then I took the ferry over to Mellieha so I could go to Popeye Village and the Blue Lagoon before I leave this awesome country. 
Popeye Village was great.  I enjoyed the performances and the unique set of the movie Popeye.  They have done a great job on this attraction.  Blue Lagoon is breathtaking.  The water is so blue and inviting.  The crowds… but come early in the day to avoid some. 

One last look at some of the delicious food in Malta…

Now as I get ready to leave this gorgeous country I have some parting thoughts.  Malta is quite a place.  It is full of history, intrigue, beauty and depth. 

Gozo, I feel, is a place to return.  My host there is involved with an organization called Happy Parenting and it deals with Parent Alienation.  I may see what I can do and perhaps that will be another volunteer experience for me.  Whatever the future holds, I am glad I made time to come to Malta.  Not knowing much about this country I learned alot.  The people, just like the island itself, demonstrates strength, fortitude and beauty.

My Mt Etna hike was all that I hoped it would be.  On our hike there was a family with roots from Wakayama, the same place my family is from in Japan.  That was interesting.  The mother’s mom and dad live in Wakayama and she married and moved to England with a Spanish husband and they have 2 teenagers.  They speak English, Japanese, Spanish.  It was fun to listen to them speak to each other in a combination of Japanese, Spanish and English.  How great!

We started fine, but the wind was so bad our guide changed the course.  It was a bit scary to hike with a strong wind. So i was glad when he changed course.  We hiked a different way but made it to where we wanted to.  The view was great.  Not too cold, actually a beautiful day.  The hike was easy but, of course, with my slow pace I held out the back of the pack.  Don’t know why everyone is in such a rush. I like to take my time and enjoy the scenery.  We were walking on black lava sand nearly the whole way. 
My guide gave me a piece of lava from the latest eruption for my birthday.  He said it was ok to take it.  It’ll be a nice keepsake from my 71st birthday!

I enjoyed the rest of my Catania visit.  Walking through the streets, shops, fish market and strolling along the waterfront all made the essence of Sicily come alive. The next day I took bus to Siracusa.

It was easy walking to the bus station.  It was the same one I arrived at on the train. Then I followed Google maps to my new place.  The host and her husband me there. The I walked around town to get the layout.  Found the open market and got some fried fish. 
The next day walked to the Archeogical Park.  It was a nice walk, about 2 miles.  I was expecting a little more at the park.  I guess after seeing Pompei this wasn’t too exciting.  Perhaps the most interesting part was the quarry area and the artwork on display there.  Built in the 5th century BC by slaves was the Roman Amphitheater and Greek Theater in Siracusa. 

Decided to take the bus for a day trip to Noto.  The historical baroque town center was massive.  Lots of baroque churches and buildings.

After coming back from Noto, I decided to go the the church of Santa Lucia because I really wanted to see the painting by Carravagio – “The Burial of St Lucy”.  I made it there before they closed and got some great pictures.  Carravagio is a Roman artist who was known for his technique to work with light and dark. His paintings were dramatic and realistic, perhaps drawn from his own turbulent live.  He fled from Rome due to his killing of a man.  He found refuge in Naples, then in Sicily and Malta before he almost killed a man and was again sentenced to death.  He escaped from prison and ended up dying under strange circumstances at the age of 38. 

Well, now on my way to Pozzallo, the town where I catch the ferry to Malta.  The trip to Pozzallo was fine.  Actually the same bus ride as yesterday to Noto but further along the way.  Seems like a very small town.  Only stayed there one night, but long enough to walk the beach area and check out the town.  The beach was nice.  Little waves, which I have not seen for awhile.  This is the Mediterranean Sea and there is sand – nice sand.  I wouldn’t mind coming back here.  Seems like a nice laid back town.  I may want to come back one day.

First stop was Palermo.  Found my way from the airport to my location on bus.  I was a little uneasy about that as I arrived at 10 at night.  It was easy however, and I actually felt completely safe.  I found the right bus and it went straight to the town center.  My host met me at the bus stop and walked me to the air b & b.  It was right in the middle of old town.  Went on a fabulous free walking tour the next day.  It was fabulous.  Palermo has some very beautiful architecture.

We went to this beautiful church that has a kitchen that makes the most well known cannoli.  It was yummy!

During the walk I learned that the opera there was having a special performance that very evening.  It was the final competition night featuring the best young oper singers from around the world. I decided right there that I wanted to go.  While on the walking tour I met a woman in a wheelchair that travels solo.  She has a blog… “Beyond the Chair”. Talk about impressive!! I will check out her blog and she said she’s also on Facebook.  

Well, got my ticket for the opera.  Dressed up as much as I could and went to the beautiful opera house Teatro Massimo.  It was beautiful.  I felt soo lucky to be there.  We even got to vote for the audience favorite.  The  prize money was given by the sanitation company.  You may know that mafia is involved with sanitation department.  I also noticed how most all of the dignitaries with the opera upper management were men. It was fabulous and a very special night. 

The next day I went to the “No Mafia” exhibition.  Learned how the mafia has had an influence in Palermo and still today has a life.  We don’t use the word mafia, but in many places in America and elsewhere there is corruption. Corruption is corruption no mater what you call it. All about control, power and money.

Well… the food scene in Palermo is out of this world.  I have learned about pizza, arancini, pasta, seafood and see food!  Anyway the food is delicious!

On my way to Cantania next and to do my Mt Etna climb for my birthday. Took the bus from Palermo to Cantania.  When I got to Cantania I went to the transfer bus and waited to catch it to my place. That was an adventure! When the bus came the driver said I needed a ticket and to get the ticket in the station. Well the station had no one to speak to… only machines.  So I asked train station workers.  They said to buy the  ticket in front.  Went looking again to no avail … then finally I saw a man selling tickets.  Got my ticket from him and proceeded to the bus.  While waiting on the bus I met a girl from America.  Then all the sudden everyone on the bus left to go to another bus.  We quickly go to ask someone and they said to go to the another bus.  Well… finally started going and got off at the right stop then walked about 15 min to my place.  The lady met me and showed me to my room.  Nice big and spacious, but had about 5 floors to get up, but i am used to that by now. After walking around the area I discovered I could have and should have just walked from the station instead of taking the bus. I would have got there much sooner than waiting around for the bus, but I really wanted to attempt to catch the local bus.  So now I know… but if it only takes 15/20 minutes or so I am better off just walking. 

Cantania is quite the place.  Lots more graffiti there than in Palermo.  Had a free walking tour and learned alot more about Cantania. They were under Spanish, Roman amd Greek control and they have incorporated much from those cultures.  Their architecture has all those influences.   It is the capital of Sicily.  Often referred to as the “black city” because some of its building are black from the soot and ashes of Mt Etna.  The bottom of the buildings are made of basalt.  Basalt being resistant to damage from volcanic lava.  The people of Cantania have undergone volcanic eruptions and earthquakes and have rebuild their city over and again. 

Cantania has respect for Mt. Etna.  They actually call her Mama Etna and her “babies” are the little upsprouting volcanos that occur around her due to the pressure.  Mt Etna continues to erupt but it is a slow flowing type of eruption, unlike Mt Vesuvius, so the people live in harmony with her.  Tomorrow I will hike Mt Etna for my birthday…. I am excited!

We headed to Amalfi Coast.  Dave drove to Minori where we had reserved our place.  Wandering through the small commune it was quite cute.  We took a hike through the Lemon Path which leads you to Maiori the next slightly bigger commune.  Then we walked the street way back.  Had some awesome food seafood as well as local dishes.

Next day we hiked to Positano and took the ferry back.  Places were crowded.  Can’t imagine what it is like during the summer, the busy season. 

Malika left the next morning and we hiked to Ravello, then to Amalfi and took the ferry back.  That was our short three days in the Amalfi coast.  It was great.  Loved the small commune of Minori.  It was very laid back and had a wonderful peaceful feeling. 

Then we separated.  They went back to California and me on my way to Sicily…

and the food was great there!

Naples… busy and lively.  Here I had my backpack unzipped and lost my extra (not good) phone charger.  Good thing they never got anything else.  I didn’t even feel it.  Happened as I was walking from ferry to bus station.  Need to be more careful.  This girl stopped me and said someone was trying to get into my backpack and that I should be careful.  When I checked all my zippers were unzipped.   From then on I turned my backpack around.  I also misplaced my new jacket I bought in Zadar.  Don’t think anyone stole it I think I just misplaced it.  Oh well.  Good thing was  I met up with friends in Naples.

It was nice having others with me.  I didn’t have to worry about where I was going and let them plan most everything.   Ended up going to Capri without my friends because they were not feeling well.  I still had a fabulous time.  It was wonderful but very busy as I felt like we were herded on to the boats, tran and buses.  Met these 2 ladies from the cruise ship from America.  We had a great time in the grotto and in Capri town.  Finally made it to the grotto and it proved to be all that I thought it would be.  However, it was for such a short time and was a somewhat costly adventure.  They must make a tremendous amount of money with this experience.  

After they left I headed to Anacapri to see the view.  Took the tram and had a wonderful view of Capri. 

The Blue Grotto was fantastic.  Glad I made it here.  Capri was great, but very crowded. 

Pompeii was an experience that I won’t easily forget.  When Mt Vesuvius erupted it totally destroyed the thriving cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79 AD.  The recovery of these cities has been intensive and is still ongoing.  I have been told that they purposely leave some digs for future generations so that learning can continue.  These ancient civilizations were very advanced.  The way they built their cities you can tell they knew about urban planning, engineering and artistry.  The frescoes on the walls show dimension and depth, something we thought wasn’t used till much later.  The rich were very rich and they had many slaves.  The women were inferior and the men were dominant.  Man builds massive wealth and structures, but nature can take it all away in an instant.

Lots of tourists there, but it remains a place to see at least once in your life.  It takes more than one day to truly explore Pompeii ruins.  I went twice… once on a tour by myself and once with Malika with another guide.  I saw different places and we walked around by ourselves for another 3 hours.  The only sites that the guides repeated were the brothel, the bakery and the basic layout of the houses. 

I also went to Mt Vesuvius.  It was a steep but short climb to the crater.  The crater was massive.  One day it will erupt again.  Hopefully the damage next time won’t be as significant.   Only time will tell.  Meanwhile the people still live in the area and prefer to live in the present. 

Taking the local buses was a trip.  The buses are not labeled… only labeled with graffiti so you just have to hope you’re on the right bus.  Plus they don’t announce or indicate what station you stop at.  One time these local guys told us we needed to get off amd transfer.  Malika didn’t think so.  However, we followed their directions and all was fine.  Thing is there is no way to tell if it is a direct or special bus.  Only once when coming back from Pompeii did an announcement come on.  All the other tourists cramped on the bus were wondering as well.  We made it fine, though and after you figure it out then transportation is ok.  It is an interesting challenge. 

Naples city center was very busy and quite interesting.  Streets filled with vendors, colorful and lively.  Loved the Spanish Quarter and the market areas.  I will come through Naples one more day on my way through to home.  Then I can see whatever I missed or want to see again.  Now we are on to the Amalfi Coast!