Varanasi

A spiritual journey and more.  If I thought Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur were full of sights, smells, and sounds… Varanasi still has it all.  Just not as many people and much less honking, but the cows and dogs are everywhere.   The streets are small and narrow  and go on endlessly, but you’ll eventually find your way out to the main street. 

My b & b was close to Assi Ghat, so that is the first place I went. Then I followed Google maps to the burning Ghat, but got lost because the road it tells you to go is no longer there (due to flooding).  So I finally asked this one guy on another ghat, and he said I was going the wrong way.  He volunteered to bring me to another smaller burning ghat.  So I said yes, he seemed nice enough. He actually stopped at a Hindu temple and brought me inside.  He is a devote Hindu as he prayed at every entrance and statue.  His name is Avinash.  He speaks some English.  Young guy… 29 and looking for an American girlfriend or wife.  He said that he is poor and it is hard to survive in Varanasi.   We talked, and he shared his life and asked questions about America.  They rent his house and would like to be able to buy a place, but they don’t have the money.  He said the Indian government does nothing to help the poor.  His sister got a teaching degree but can not find a job.  He lives with his sister, mom, and dad.  All families live together here out of desire and necessity.  I feel for him.  We talked, and he said he’d get a boat and we could go to see sunrise tomorrow morning.  I said ok.  He showed me my way home, and we parted ways. 

You know the guides seem to always keep in contact if they have your info.  Probably because they hope to make more money from you or to get referrals. Things here have much to do about trying to make money.  There are not many jobs for the poor.  They pray so much to their God’s and continue to live hard lives.  Some say that they are not happy.  Makes me sad.  then I went home to have dinner.  It was yummy, as usual.

Well, the next morning I got to out meeting place at 5:30 but no sign of him.  I kept calling to no avail.  Finally, he answered and said he slept in.  I said no problem, them made my way to the other burning ghat. The more famous one, Manikarnika Ghat.  Again, goggle maps direct me to unavailable streets.  So when I reached another ghat, a young kid came up and offered to take me there.  He spoke English well and I liked him so ok.  I’m glad I did. I don’t think I would have found it on my own. When we are finally there, he introduces me to the man in charge who gives me a tour and explains things.  Of course, at the end, the man in charge of the burning asks for money to help buy logs for the poor, who can not afford it.  He goes so far as to tell me how much for what size body.  I agree to give some, but of course, not enough. So I give a little more and say that is all I can do.  Then the man who brought me around asks me for some money for him and his family.  I hesitate,  but give in and give him a little.  We walked back through the winding roads, and I gave the young man who brought me there something, like around $5.  All this asking for money is making me tired and cranky.  I understand, but it is a little irritation. 

Then, I decided to head to  Assi Ghat to watch the evening Aarti (a performance honoring the Ganges River). Before that, I stopped at a restaurant, Aum, and had a smoothie. I met a lady from Japan named Eiko here studying the sitar musical stringed instrument for 6 months.  We had a great time chatting.  Still had time to pass, so I walked around and then went to another restaurant, Maya’s right next door to Aum.  I met another lady who happened to be from Vermont and is a travel writer, named Jen Rose Smith  How neat that is.  We had a great time chatting and sharing stories.  We shared info so we could follow each other’s happenings.  I stayed there and chatted with the owner, Maya.  She was so interesting.  Runs the place with her 2 sons.  They serve the poor every Monday, and sometimes, she brings food out to the community.  We chatted for a couple of hours, and I was the only customer.
Then I made it to the Ghat and started filming and taking pictures. It lasted about 2 to 3 hours.  I was determined to stay till the end because I wasn’t going back the next day or morning.   Me and Avinash had agreed to try the sunrise boat ride again the next morning.

Well, wouldn’t you know it, but the next morning, the gate to my place, they could get it open. They had the wrong key or something.  So I didn’t leave my place till the time I was supposed to meet him. He said it was OK so I went. Got to the Ghat, but the boat wasn’t there.  He kept calling and finally said we were ok.  1500 rs, and I could ride. That’s about 17 us dollars.
In the meantime, I got to see many locals doing their bathing, worshipping, etc. That part was neat. 

Finally the boat came and we went out.  We didn’t miss the sunrise.  What a gorgeous sun. I’ve never quite seen anything like that.  He says it is every morning. What a blessed place. 

Then we walked back and ran into Eiko from yesterday.  We talked, and we all shared info, cuz I never got her info before.  We went towards the Ghat, and he got me the best honey ginger tea I have ever had from this vendor on the street.  I paid Avinash 3000 rs ($22.) for taking me around. When we passed kids begging, he gave them something.  He said you give me and I give them. He said he never slept last night, so I told him to go home and sleep.  I went to Maya’s again and talked with her the whole morning.  Again, I was her only customer. I don’t have the extra money to give her now, but I will try when I get home, and my finances are stabilized.   Well, I wandered the streets some more and decided to check out this restaurant and just get a little something and work on my phone.  After I got there, Eiko called me.  I told her to come join me for lunch.  The restaurant was on a rooftop and was very nice.  The owner was very friendly.  After some time, Eiko showed up, and we had a great time sharing stories.   She has had an interesting past.  Used to be a tour guide, yoga teacher, and such.  It’s not the norm for a Japanese woman. Her husband likes to stay home, so he doesn’t mind if she leaves for extended times. 
Then another single lady showed up.  She is Malaysian. She was very talkative and interesting.  We had a great time talking.  She said she’s been doing solo traveling for about 20 years.  She is in her forties now and very beautiful.  Very friendly with lots of information.  We walked out together, and I followed her to a store just to look. another new contact to follow.

The next morning, I left for Kathmandu. 

Varanasi holds a special place in my heart because of the people I met there and its unique qualities as the spiritual capital. It is a place I might go back to.